“I first enjoyed the combination of chilled cooked celeriac with tangerines and pear in Istanbul at Muzedechanga – a gorgeous terrace restaurant nestled on the Bosphorus that I’ve been a consultant to for many years, along with its sister restaurant Changa. It serves contemporary versions of traditional dishes, as well as fantastic new dishes created by its owners, Tarik and Savas. I’ve served the salad as part of a starter or main course with grilled (broiled) mackerel or some spiced lamb chops, but it’s equally fabulous as a vegetarian starter, with cabbage and roast fennel mixed into it.”
– Peter Gordon, chef, east London
Serves 6 as a starter or 8 to 10 as a side dish
INGREDIENTS
2 tbsp sunflower oil
2 white-fleshed onions, thinly sliced
1 large celeriac (about 750g/1lb 10oz), peeled and cut into 3cm (1¼in) chunks
3 pears, firm and ripe
2 satsumas (or use tangerines or clementines), unpeeled, halved, each half cut into
6–8 chunks and pips discarded
85ml (1/3 cup) lemon juice
4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
2 heads fennel, trimmed and thinly sliced into rings
2 tbsp sesame seeds
¼ red cabbage (about 250g/9oz), core discarded
METHOD
Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas mark 4).
Warm a medium pan over a medium heat. Add the sunflower oil and onions and 1½ teaspoons of flaky salt. Sauté with the lid on, without colouring, until wilted, stirring as it cooks.
Mix in the celeriac and cook, covered, on a slightly reduced heat, stirring every few minutes, for 10 minutes. Halve and core the pears, then cut each half into six chunks.
Add these to the celeriac, along with the satsumas, lemon juice and 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Stir well, place a paper cartouche on top of the mixture, cover with a lid and cook for 15–20 minutes, stirring from time to time to prevent the vegetables catching on the base of the pan, until you can insert a knife through the celeriac with barely any resistance. Leave to cool in the pan, then taste for seasoning.
Meanwhile, toss the fennel with the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil, the sesame seeds and ½ teaspoon of salt. Roast in a baking dish until beginning to caramelize, about 20 minutes, stirring several times.
Slice the cabbage as thin as possible – a mandolin is good for this.
To serve, toss the cabbage with the fennel, taste for seasoning and lay it on your plates. Give the celeriac a gentle stir, taste for seasoning and spoon this and its juices on top. Serve at room temperature.