17th January 2018
Interview: Sophie Missing
Photograph: Emile Dinneen
20 Sea Road, Galway; www.kaicaferestaurant.com
Jess and David Murphy’s Galway restaurant uses local produce from suppliers like Connemara Smokehouse, Lough Boora farm, and Sheridans cheesemongers on their daily changing menu. Takashi knows Jess from collaborating on pop-ups together: “Jess Murphy has a great palate. For me, she’s the best. She’s from New Zealand, I’m from Japan, and [we did a pop up with] another chef from Finland, and one from Australia. We are immigrants, but we are Irish chefs. We are making Irish food.”
The Courtyard, Main Street, Midleton, Co. Cork; www.sagerestaurant.ie
There are fewer opportunities for eating out now they have two young children, Stephanie explains, but when it’s a special occasion like a birthday, Sage is one of the places they like to visit.
Baltimore, Co. Cork P81 TC64; www.mewsrestaurant.ie
Takashi is keen to check out head chef Ahmet Dede’s cooking in this seasonal restaurant (open from March to September) in the seaside town of Baltimore, where the set and tasting menus only use ingredients from West Cork.
www.ballyhouramushrooms.ie
The source of Takashi’s incredible hen-of-the-wood mushroom, also known as maitake, Ballyhoura is run by an Irish-Scottish couple who both forage and grow their own mushrooms.
Princes St, Cork City, T12 RW26; www.englishmarket.ie
Takashi visits the English Market on Mondays when he’s not at the restaurant. Takashi: “Most of the fish from K O’Connell in the market is from Castletownbere in West Cork – it’s an interesting area.”
Gubbeen House, Schull, Co. Cork; www.gubbeen.com
Cured meats (including cooking and cured salami-style chorizo), cheese and fresh vegetables from the Ferguson family’s West Cork farm.
www.wildatlanticwayproducts.com
Wild Atlantic Way supplied the channel wrack seaweed for curing the monkfish. “I forage myself,” says Takashi, “but I don’t often go to West Cork; I go to Rocky Bay, about 20 miles from here but they don’t have as much. It’s a little bit sticky at the end, but the flavour is unreal. The channel wrack we use in Japan is always dried. The first time I used it fresh, I was like, oh, that’s so different. I’ve started using it in the restaurant.”
Interviews
Takashi Miyazaki
Jess Murphy’s Galway Address Book – The chef-owner of Kai recommends a cheesemonger with a wine bar upstairs, a must-visit farmers' market and a bookselling fruit & veg shop
Mitch Tonks’ Devon & Dorset Address Book – The chef and food writer picks a stunningly located oyster restaurant, "the most fantastic" curry house and a "great, if grumpy" butcher
Louise McGuane’s Clare Address Book – The owner of Chapel Gate Whiskey recommends a "phenomenal" seafood pub, an Irish cheese specialist and a favourite long-running bakery
Gill Meller’s Devon & Dorset Address Book – The food writer and chef on unfussy restaurant he really likes, an "incredible" off-grid smallholding and his favourite local chippie