19th May 2016
Interview: Killian Fox
Photographs: Dan Dennison
Kyrkogatan 31, 411 08 Göteborg, Sweden; www.barcentro.se
“This is a small bar-restaurant I really like. It used to be a coffee-only place but now two guys run a restaurant there at night, so after 6pm they change coffee for wine. It’s really nice. All natural wines. Simple, very easy food, but always really good. They usually have a bone marrow dish with parsley and toasted bread – that’s always nice.” – Gustav
Mariagatan 17, 414 71 Göteborg, Sweden; www.tapasbaren.se
“As the name suggests, this is a tapas place but they mix traditional tapas with Swedish ingredients. They’re really good.”
Stigbergsliden 17, 414 63 Göteborg, Sweden; www.hozerestaurant.com
“This is a really nice Japanese-Swedish place with only six seats and one chef behind the counter. José, the guy who runs it, does everything by himself – that’s impressive.”
Jose Cerda making us Swedish “sushi” at his restaurant Hoze in Gothenburg
Stora Saluhallen 46, 411 17 Göteborg, Sweden; www.storasaluhallen.se
“This a Greek soup kitchen in the big indoor food market: good lunches here.”
Södra Vägen 20, 412 54 Göteborg, Sweden; www.drinks20.se
“I think we only have one or two bars here that don’t serve food. In Sweden you need to serve food to have a drinks license, so most of the bars here are located in restaurants or hotels. It’s a little bit sad. But we have two places they consider as only bars, and this is one of them. They have a restaurant next door so they can send for food, but no one buys food there, it’s a real bar. It’s really nice: innovative drinks, good bartenders. A lot of restaurant people go there.”
Magasinsgatan 24, 411 18 Göteborg, Sweden (and other locations); www.damatteo.se
“We buy our coffee from this place [run by veteran Gotheburg roaster Matts Johansson]. It’s good coffee, lightly roasted – we do just filter, no espresso at the restaurant.”
Kungstorget, 411 17 Göteborg, Sweden; www.storasaluhallen.se/en
We meet Gustav at this big indoor food market in the centre of town. He buys some vegetables from the stall outside the Kungstorget entrance and points out a really good cheese shop inside the market called Hugo Ericson Ost.
Olskrokstorget, Göteborg, Sweden
“At the restaurant we get our seafood from a supplier, but for cooking at home, there’s a small square called Olskrokstorget where they have a small fish stalls that are all good.”
Recipes
Cabbage, Eggs, Peas and Gruyère
Interviews
Gustav Knutsson
Jess Murphy’s Galway Address Book – The chef-owner of Kai recommends a cheesemonger with a wine bar upstairs, a must-visit farmers' market and a bookselling fruit & veg shop
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Louise McGuane’s Clare Address Book – The owner of Chapel Gate Whiskey recommends a "phenomenal" seafood pub, an Irish cheese specialist and a favourite long-running bakery
Gill Meller’s Devon & Dorset Address Book – The food writer and chef on unfussy restaurant he really likes, an "incredible" off-grid smallholding and his favourite local chippie