28th July 2015
Interview: Killian Fox
Photographs: Yousef Eldin
39, Camden Street Lower, Dublin 2; +353 1 598 4880, www.delahunt.ie
“I went here for the first time last week and it was very good. The food is very similar to St John in London: they were serving things like crispy pig’s ear and oxtail with bone marrow, parsley and snail salad. It’s really nice and they’ve done a great job with the design.” – Federico
Fumbally Lane, Dublin 8; +353 1 529 8732, www.thefumbally.ie
Federico highly recommends this hugely appealing basement café (pictured below) on an unprepossessing street southwest of the city centre. “It’s really forward-thinking, they’re doing amazing things. There was nowhere like it in Dublin when it opened.” (See our interview with Katie Sanderson for more info.)
1 William St S, Dublin 2; +353 1 672 9884, www.coppingerrow.com
“I’m a bit biased because my business partner runs it but the food at Coppinger Row is always good. Also it has a great atmosphere – it reminds me a bit of Moro in London, very busy with good food. It’s nice to go to a place where you see everyone from the hipster to the 80-year-old – I like that.”
17 Ranelagh Rd, Dublin 6; +353 1 406 0066, www.kinarakitchen.ie/upstairs-bar
“There aren’t many good cocktail bars in Dublin but I like this little bar on top of an Indian restaurant in Ranelagh. It’s very small, a one-man bar, but Paul Lambert who runs it knows what he’s doing. He’ll tell you the origin of each drink and what goes with what – he’s incredibly knowledgeable.”
18 Drury St, Dublin 2; +353 1 677 9764, www.asiamarket.ie
“This is really good for Asian ingredients: they have a huge selection, they’re always busy, and it’s really good value for money. You find things here that you don’t get anywhere else.” – Federico
14 West Pier, Howth, Co Dublin; +353-1-8320249, www.wrightsofhowth.com
“Wrights were supplied us with fish when I was at Coppa and their stuff is great quality. I’d get a big slab of salmon from them and make sashimi. They have a shop at Dublin airport as well as the one in Howth.”
11-17 Exchequer St, Dublin 2; +353 1 472 1010, www.fallonandbyrne.com
A buzzy high-end food hall in the city centre. “I go to Fallon and Byrne if I want to cook a nice piece of meat.”
46–50 South Great George’s, Dublin 2; www.dunnesstores.com
Fede doesn’t discriminate too much between high and low when it comes to food shopping – he also shops at this resolutely unfancy Irish supermarket as well as SuperValu (another Irish supermarket chain) and Lidl.
304 Ballyfermot Road, Ballyfermot, Dublin 10; +353 1 5065554, www.mcloughlinbutchers.ie
“Another Coppa supplier. Pat does really good meat.”
Jess Murphy’s Galway Address Book – The chef-owner of Kai recommends a cheesemonger with a wine bar upstairs, a must-visit farmers' market and a bookselling fruit & veg shop
Mitch Tonks’ Devon & Dorset Address Book – The chef and food writer picks a stunningly located oyster restaurant, "the most fantastic" curry house and a "great, if grumpy" butcher
Louise McGuane’s Clare Address Book – The owner of Chapel Gate Whiskey recommends a "phenomenal" seafood pub, an Irish cheese specialist and a favourite long-running bakery
Gill Meller’s Devon & Dorset Address Book – The food writer and chef on unfussy restaurant he really likes, an "incredible" off-grid smallholding and his favourite local chippie