Alain and myself travelled to Copenhagen a few months before we opened Ox in 2013. My friend Christian Puglisi organised us a few days with him at his restaurant Relae. We worked and ate there and also at Noma and both meals will always stand out in my memory as mindblowing. One incredible dish at Relae was turnip cooked, dehydrated and then rehydrated, served almost like pasta in a light cream sauce with mustard seeds. As we sat in Noma excited and nervous about returning to Belfast to start Ox, both reflecting on our few days there and busting with ideas, it began to snow heavily outside. We both just stared out onto the sea watching in awe. I remember it like it was yesterday.
My favourite is Michel Bras’ Essential Cuisine. I bought it shortly after it came out in 2002 and it still amazes me now every time I open it – standout recipes include his lamb with “florentine” onions in saffron bouillon and the fromage blanc tartine with butternut confit and chives. I also love The Cuisine of Frédy Girardet, with recipes like lightly cooked salmon with fennel and olive oil or stuffed escalopes of foie gras. He was one of the greatest of French cuisine. For reference I always go to Larousse Gastronomique, it’s the bible for chefs.
I don’t like too big a portion of anything – I find it hard to start if I know I’m never going to finish. I’m not a fan of craft beers – they are too heavy in hops.
Eggs benedict and fresh grapefruit juice, finished with a good coffee – usually an americano with milk or a cappuccino, then espressos the rest of the day.
I’d have to say L’Arpege and L’Astrance in Paris, as they’re where my inspiration came from, when deciding the direction I wanted to take in food, and they’re the kind of the restaurants I’ll always look up to. Alain Passard [at L’Arpege] is my food hero, he changed the rules.
Our playlist during prep is as random as it can get. From Tupac to Rolling Stones to old 90s rave tunes. It all adds to the mix, like the different moments in the service ahead. Although I do turn the volume up when Gimme Shelter comes on by the Stones. Tune!
Nothing beats a good cup of tea with a splash of milk. Everything stops for those few minutes.
My grandmother’s vegetable broth. She would spend all day Friday making it and we enjoyed it on the Saturday for lunch. She cooked it with beef shin-bone and boiled potatoes to finish.
Knowing pastry and savoury, it’s a must for any good head chef.
My daughter’s birthday cake. I always make her a cake for her birthday, this year it was chocolate with icing.
As it’s almost summer now, I’ll say verbena, my favourite herb.
Mandoline, we use them for so many different things.
French: it’s seasonal and regional.
A server without a smile.
Winter truffles
Apple ice wine with cold foie gras ganache and raw asparagus. We discovered a great Irish apple iced wine from Killahora Orchards.
Ox is at 1 Oxford Street, Belfast ; www.oxbelfast.com
The Gannet Q&A: Ben Reade – The co-founder of Edinburgh Food Studio on his cravings for fruit, memorable Christmas dinners at his granny's house and his most blissful meal
The Gannet Q&A: Will Goldfarb – The Bali-based dessert specialist on his favourite ever restaurant meal (which he had three times), a fascination with chickpeas and his ongoing struggle to avoid a particular fruit
The Gannet Q&A: Laura Freeman – The author of The Reading Cure on her greatest hits recipe compilation, the secret ingredient for the perfect breakfast and her restaurant pet hate
The Gannet Q&A: Korsha Wilson – The food writer and podcast host on her cookbook conversion, Maryland blue crabs for dinner, and a deep-seated hatred of peanut butter